What the internet and you Marzocchi maniacs probably don’t know is, that Marzocchi rebuild the XC500 crown from about 1994 in the XC600 design. I believe they did it because of a product improvements and they continued with the design in XC600, XC700, XCR and DH3.
No joke, no fake. Just look at the pictures!
I know about because over the years I had several n *100’s older Marzocchi fork in my hands and lucky me I have found 3 – 4 of this crowns in my boxes. They are in absolut best condition, NOS, never used!!
To be honest, I don’t know much about this forks. It is a elastomer fork with 24mm stanchions and Marzocchi buildt it around 1995/1996.
Travel: ZOKES 2/ZOKES-PRO: 52 mm (2 inches), ZOKES TREKKING: 42
mm (1.5 inches)
Weight : 1.400 – 1.500 gr
I own 2 service boxes by accident, look at the pictures. The fork uses a standard 24mm Marzocchi oil seal.
Damping is done by compact-polyurethane elastomer shims with varying hardness. MARZOCCHI supplies elastomers with varying hardness. Each type is color-coded :
RED : medium hardness
YELLOW : soft
BLUE : hard
ZOKES-PRO has knobs on top of the stanchions to adjust increase or decrease preload, ZOKES 2 and ZOKES TREKKING turn the screw (332) inside the
There is a mechanical spring for rebound end of stroke in the fork (20-30mm).
Looks like there is a conversion kit available to exchange the elastomer against springs :
Well, over the years I had no good solution to clamp all the round parts (slider, stanchions, cartridges etc.) fork have for disassembling or assembling. Sometimes I won against a problem, sometimes I lost part.
There are some very difficult cases like unscrewing the XC400 (and similar older forks from the XC Series) top screw units or unmounting the seals from a Bombers slider, where you need a strong and suitable clamp.
Another good example is a Bombers cartridge, if you want to unscrew the threadened head of a cardrige as I did it here. You seriouly can’t unscrew it without having such a tool, you will destroy the cartridge for sure! Here is a picture from such a condition using a Z1 rebound cartridge and a 8mm jaw set:
[ngg src=”galleries” ids=”72″ display=”basic_thumbnail” override_thumbnail_settings=”1″ thumbnail_width=”300″ thumbnail_height=”240″ thumbnail_crop=”0″ images_per_page=”1″ number_of_columns=”1″]In most of this cases you can find a tricky suitable solution in your toolbox, using pieces of wood (drill holes in it, saw it etc.), wrap in cloth/plastik etc. pp. But from time to time for sure you will brake something.
I was happy to find this parts by accident and ordered a set in a minute as my Xmas present 😉
I can tell you that this tools do the trick very well and as I use them almost in a daily matter I’m very happy to own them. Look at the pictures, you will nuderstand what I mean. The 2 basic parts are magnetic and hold themselfes in a vise.
And for sure: I will break less things during my work using this tools …!
You all know, sometimes you get badly stuck, if a screw get’s teared off or the allen screw head turned round. Most common for classic Marzocchi Bombers are the 4 screws, which holds the brace (arch, brake booster) on the left and right castings.
Why does his happen?
Easy answer: the standard allen screws are glued in!
What can I do to avoid damage??
If you heat it up, bevor trying to unscrew it, in most cases everything went fine. And if you use an impact wrench, a sharp bit and you have cleaned the allen screw key head you can get it out in 95% of your cases.
What can I do, if this fails??
Easy, if you own a good drilling and a welding machine, have look at the pictures. First drill the head from the allen screw off by drilling a 6mm hole in the center until the head breaks up, than weld a nut on the rest of the screw. During welding the screw will heat up stringly, that’s what you need exact to screw it easily out 😉
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